One of the flaws in poultry husbandry is the necessity
of killing roosters. It must be
done, like weeding a flower garden.
To their credit, the roosters make it easy, as they so often become
vituperative creatures, full of hate and sound. Yet they can be strikingly beautiful, and I do regret their
deaths. On our property, a healthy
percentage appears to be one rooster for every ten hens. That usually means five birds from my
house, and another five from Margaret, ten proud cockerels.
If I were a sensible chicken keeper the hens who have
ceased to lay consistently would join those ten. Most poultry businesses do not provide a retirement
community for non-laying hens. A
hen may live ten to fourteen years, and if only two to four of those years are
egg-laying years, well, that is a lot of grain. Truth is, I love my hens, their chuckling cluck, their
color, their vehement defense of the nest. I love the roosters as well, and some become pets, come when
called, and are my helpmates in keeping the flock safe. Yet a certain number must go, and on
that day, preferably a cool, windless day, Margaret and I get together to
slaughter.
Once
the blood has been drained from their bodies they become pale shadows of their
prior magnificence. Moments
earlier they were strutting and calling; tossing their iridescent hackles in
challenge. Just catching them is a
fight. They puff up and hurl
themselves at the wire, masculinity in a nutshell.
Seized
by the catching hook, all defiance bleeds away and they squawk horribly,
protesting their fate. This is
where the terror comes in. It is
my job, as the killer, to make sure that their terror is brief, and does not proceed
into agony. I hang them upside
down and stroke their beautiful feathers.
There is an element of science in this; carotid massage, or rubbing the
carotid artery produces a sense of calm.
Once they have stopped struggling I call them by name and tell them what
I know about their personality.
This one was a good forager, that one was a little too rough with the
hens. I call upon their spirit to
accept death with clarity and to seek rebirth in a better setting. Just for good measure I whisper several
names of the Buddha into their ears.
If you believe in reincarnation, then roosters need all the help they
can get. While they are listening
I swiftly insert the point of my knife into the carotid artery.
Done
correctly the bird bleeds out in several heartbeats. There is some residual brain activity that causes dramatic
flapping, but it is a gentler death than removing the head entirely. Sometimes the knife fails to hit the
sweet spot and I have to go back in.
These deaths are less than calm; often the rooster will actually pick
his head up and look right at me as if to say, “this is terrible, why are you
letting me suffer like this?” In
those moments of a bad death, terror becomes agony for the rooster, which in
turn becomes more terror. Even a
being a simple as a rooster has the capacity for these primal emotions.
The
real question of how to best ameliorate agony and terror may seem simple. Don’t kill any roosters. Unfortunately in almost all kinds of
livestock rearing, male animals are less than fortunate. I could make excuses about how it is
cruel to keep too many roosters in one pen. Or how it is cruel to the hens, this is true, as overcrowded
roosters will injure the hens in their frenzy to mate.
I could order female chicks from the catalog, but
truth is if you buy 25 pullets, the hatchery always throws in a few cockerels. Sometimes it is a mistake by the chick
sexer, but most of the time, the extra cockerels are there purposefully, as
live heating packs. Five extra
chicks per twenty-five may help to keep the entire group warm. Consider that most chick orders are
sent out while the weather is still quite cold. I rarely order chicks, preferring to order eggs and incubate
them, or allow my own good stock to replenish itself naturally. As a result, there will be
roosters. During the school year
several classes incubate eggs.
Over the years I have noted an unusually high ratio of roosters hatched
in the school environment, for which I have no good explanation. The good news is that these ‘school’
roosters are very tame and often make my best team players.
What it comes down to is that I hate being attacked
when I enter the chicken yard. And
there is that small matter of the incessant crowing. On the side of the roosters, my closest neighbor has told me
that the roosters have saved him several times when he overslept. The neighbor used to leave at six a.m.,
and the roosters crowed in sufficient time for him to eat and get dressed, even
if his alarm clock failed. What is
fascinating is that this same neighbor has changed shifts, and now leaves at
330 a.m., right on cue at least two roosters have begun to crow at 3 a.m.
For
some time the chief rooster and I had it all worked out. He would attack me and I would strike
him with whatever I happen to be holding.
The extent of both of our injuries depended on how well I was dressed
and or armed. Flip-flops and
shorts are not good rooster clothing.
I tolerated this rooster for a long time because he was very good to his
hens. For the untutored, a ‘good’
rooster does not pick out too many of the hen’s feathers in the throes of
passion, he clucks attentively, locates new food sources, and keeps watch for
hours. When the chickens are
loose, a watchful rooster prevents predation by hawks, in their house; he may
give his life in the act of defending the ladies from a midnight intruder.
For their part, the hens largely ignore the roosters,
unless they make the sound that means, “Come here for I have found something
tasty.” Then they all rush over
and he stands up tall and from my imaginative eye, looks indulgent, like a
parent allowing a child to have a giant hot fudge sundae- and not even asking
for a taste.
Margaret
had a wonderful chief rooster that was just a marshmallow. He did not attack her, and was pleasant
to the hens. “Buffaroo” was a
large golden affair, all poofy buff feathers and crimson trim. My rooster, on the other hand, was
hideous. He was a Turken, which is
a variety developed somewhere in the Russian steppe country. This variety has no feathers on their
neck, under their wings, or over their hips. I have several of these birds, as they are hard-core layers
of dark eggs.
A Turken resembles a turkey on steroids, other days-
particularly when it is raining- a vulture. Either way this rooster was black and grey with this awful
red neck that just cries out for the knife. My research suggests that this unusual feather pattern was
bred for specifically to ease slaughtering and plucking of the carcass. Even as chicks they are particularly
bizarre.
Periodically
the roosters grow too numerous to bear and the aforementioned events take
place. Roosters are the source of
the best brown soup stock. Their
meat is a bit tough; fryers and roasters at the supermarket are capons, or
castrated roosters. Caponizing is
done young, and without anesthesia, the roosters make it easy by carrying their
testicles in their chest. Two
small incisions, a little finger action, and the testicles pop out like
grapes. Our birds are not caponized
as they are not meat birds, but not to let anything go to waste, what doesn’t
make stock can be made into dog food.
(It is also worth noting that an adult rooster has testicles that are as
large as those of a big dog.)
This
weekend was a killing time. The
weather was cooperative, (you laugh, but imagine plucking a bird in a high
wind.) there were only five birds, and it all should have gone smoothly. In fact, four birds died swiftly. The fifth was another story entirely. That bird simply would not die. He brought to mind all the stories
about chickens devoid of their heads, running around terrifying the
neighbors.
I
cannot tell you what went wrong with this killing, only that it was
unnecessarily terrifying for both the bird and me. As the knife went in I could tell there would be a problem. Just as I developed a skill for finding
veins for inserting an intravenous line, so I have a knack for finding an
artery in order to kill. Veins and
arteries have a different feel.
The vein is full of valves, feels meaty. The artery is pulsating yet vibrant. It wiggles away from the offending point
as if aware of its’ fate.
The
calmed bird, hanging, waiting, the sound of my voice calming its spirit, takes
the knife. The artery, on the
other hand, does its level best to get away. Something inside the bird knows it is about to die, and like
all living things, clings to life.
In this case the artery won.
I hit a vein, and then worse yet, punctured the trachea. As the bird struggled to breath,
hideous sounds emanated from the punctured windpipe. Bloody froth accumulated and spit at me.
Knife
at the ready I struck a second time, this time hitting the artery. For reasons not easily explained, this
did not end the bird’s struggle.
Now the bird was flapping and striking me with its wings. Blood and foam were everywhere. It was a moment that called for an axe,
but none was handy, so I retreated.
Back
in the barn I regarded the rooster that had peacefully died only a moment
earlier. Margaret returned from
checking on her father. One look
at me, covered in blood- I never get covered in blood- was enough to prompt an
“Oh dear.” From Margaret this is a multi purpose
statement that covers everything from a woman covered in blood to dropping a
newspaper in a puddle. I love it
the way she makes the phrase carry so many different meanings.
“Oh
dear” is usually accompanied by a
slight shaking of the head.
Margaret is quite tall and elegant, and this movement further defines
the “oh dear”. She shook her head once, but enough to
shake loose a lock of hair. We
stood together in silence and watched the bird. When it was still she approached. “Don’t touch it,” I said, but too late. At the touch of her hand it immediately
sprang to life and began to flap and shake. She ran back to me, now we matched, spattered in blood. It took too many minutes for that
animal to die, and driving home with my chilled carcasses, I critiqued the
event.
Returning home, I sought some solace in visiting my
animals. One of my favorite things
to do is tend all my creatures and flowers. This behavior is healing following a slaughtering; it is
both a chore and a daily gift. I
waddle around handing out treats, food and water. Each day there is something new, a giant dahlia flower nodding
in the early frost, new fluffy coats on the rabbits preparing for winter, a
fresh egg.
Today
death had visited my house.
The rabbit hutch was strangely still at my approach. Not a good sign. Usually the occupants would be
squeaking and leaping at my approach, as guinea pigs and rabbits are always
starving. Opening the top I beheld
that another creature with a knack for finding arteries had been hard at
work. An unknown intruder had
visited and bled out two adult rabbits and two guinea pigs. All these animals were scheduled to
return to their usual school setting that very week. All four were classroom pets, well known and loved by
many. It was carnage. One of the guinea pigs was still alive,
I was not sure if that was better or worse than her being dead.
Shawanda,
a guinea pig colored just like a squirrel, lay on her side, rasping
quietly. Both eye globes were
punctured and loosing fluid. She
had one wound on her throat through which I could hear the raspy sounds of
misplaced air. These were wounds
she could not survive; yet I had no killing left in me for that day. The kind thing would have been to kill
her myself, but I chose to be selfish.
I
made her as comfortable as possible in an indoor cage. She lingered in a deep coma for another
12 hours. Every few hours I would
check on her and struggle to kill her.
Each time I would end up adding another little blanket and walking
away. Her fate was not to die at
my hands, for I had done too much killing that day. Perhaps if that last rooster had not died so badly then I
would have had the courage to kill my pet. Without a doubt I was shaken, and worried that I could
possibly cause Shawanda more agony if I did not get it right.
Lost
that day were an Eastern Cottontail rabbit, Cocoa, a ‘lawnmower’ baby, saved
from that fate nine years prior, a year old Rex rabbit that the kids had not
yet named, an elderly tri-color guinea pig, Chocolate Chip, and of course,
Shawanda. None had been eaten,
simply drained of their blood. It
was the beginning of the “Summer of the Fisher,” but I did not yet possess that
knowledge. The entire structure of
the chicken flock would be altered, including the loss of the hideous Turken
rooster. But that is another tale
for another day, the saga of “Frankenfisher.”
Recent Comments